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Texas Offroad and Performance
Leveling Kits

Do Leveling Kits and Strut Spacers Make Your Ride Rough?

Short answer: no. A strut spacer leveling kit doesn’t change your truck’s spring rate or its damping, so the ride stays effectively the same. What most people feel after a level or lift is the new tires. Popular sizes like 35×12.50R20 are almost all 10-ply (load range E) or 12-ply (load range F) light truck tires, which are built firmer than the passenger tires most half-tons come with. That’s normal, it’s not a problem, and it’s nothing to worry about. Just know what to expect and run the right air pressure. We level and lift trucks every day at our shop in Manvel, TX, for customers from Pearland, Houston and the surrounding area.

  • A strut spacer doesn’t change the spring or the shock. It just sets the strut a little lower in the truck, so the front sits higher.
  • Basic strut spacer levels all ride about the same. So do basic 6-inch lifts. Don’t overthink the brand. Pick the height and look you want.
  • Tires make the difference you feel. E- and F-rated tires are normal for big sizes and they’re great tires. They just ride a little firmer than factory passenger tires.
  • Air pressure matters most. Run the pressure your truck’s weight actually needs, not the max number on the sidewall.
  • Upgraded struts and coilovers are a different story. Once you change the springs or valving, ride quality becomes a real choice. More on that below.

How a Strut Spacer Leveling Kit Works

Most half-ton trucks and SUVs sit lower in the front than the back from the factory. A strut spacer leveling kit fixes that. It’s a spacer, typically good for about 1 to 2.5 inches of lift, that bolts between the top of the front strut and the truck’s strut mount. The whole strut assembly sits that much lower relative to the frame, which pushes the front of the truck up and levels it out with the rear.

That’s it. The coil spring, the shock inside the strut, and the control arms are all the same factory parts doing the same job. Nothing gets softer or stiffer. Rear leveling or lift blocks work the same way: they raise the axle under the leaf springs without changing the springs themselves.

A few trucks, like many GM 2500HD and 3500HD models, use torsion bars up front instead of coil-spring struts. Those get leveled with torsion keys rather than a strut spacer. It’s the same idea, since the bar’s rate doesn’t change, but you don’t want to crank them too far, because that uses up downtravel. We set those up right. See our leveling kit pricing for your truck.

Spring Rate and Damping, in Plain English

Two things decide how your suspension feels over bumps:

  • Spring rate is how much force it takes to compress the spring one inch. A 600 lb/in spring takes 600 lb to squish it an inch, and 1,200 lb to squish it two. A higher rate feels firmer, and a lower rate feels softer.
  • Damping is the shock absorber’s job. The spring soaks up the bump, and the shock controls how fast the spring compresses and bounces back, so the truck doesn’t keep bouncing down the road. That’s set by the valving inside the shock.

A strut spacer doesn’t touch either one. Same spring, same rate, same shock, same valving. That’s why the ride stays effectively the same after a level.

Basic Levels Ride the Same, and So Do Basic 6-Inch Lifts

We get asked all the time which spacer rides the smoothest, or which 6-inch lift is the most comfortable. Honestly, among basic kits, they’re effectively the same. A 2-inch spacer from one brand and a 2-inch spacer from another do the same thing to the same factory spring and strut. Basic 6-inch lifts are similar too: they relocate the suspension with new brackets, knuckles or crossmembers and come with comparable shocks, so they all end up riding about the same.

So don’t lose sleep over spacer brands or forum threads about which basic lift rides best. Pick the height, the look and the tire size you want. Then put your energy into the choice that actually changes how the truck feels: tires.

The Real Difference Is the Tires, and That’s Normal

Here’s what usually happens. Someone levels or lifts their truck and puts bigger tires on at the same time. The truck rides a little firmer, and the leveling kit gets the blame. In reality, the tires changed and the suspension didn’t.

Most half-ton trucks and SUVs, and many Jeeps, leave the factory on passenger (P-metric) tires, either SL (Standard Load) or XL (Extra Load). Those are rated around the old 4-ply strength, about the same as load range B, with XL being a reinforced version that holds a bit more air and weight. Bigger aftermarket tires are usually LT (light truck) tires in load range E (10-ply rated) or F (12-ply rated). They have a stouter casing, stiffer sidewalls and run more air, so they ride firmer. They’re also tougher, more puncture-resistant and built to carry and tow more, which is a big part of why truck guys like them.

Tire typeLoad rangePly ratingMax-load psi*
PassengerSL (Standard Load)4-ply (about like B)35–36 (often marked 44)
PassengerXL (Extra Load)4-ply, reinforced41–42 (some marked 50)
LTC6-ply50 (35 wide)
LTD8-ply65 (50 wide)
LTE10-ply80 (65 wide)
LTF12-ply95 (80 wide)
*Typical pressure at which the tire carries its max load. “Ply rating” is a strength rating, not a count of layers. A modern 10-ply-rated tire isn’t literally built with 10 plies. “Wide” means LT tires over 295 mm or 11.50 inches wide, which includes 12.50-wide sizes like 35×12.50R20. Always go by what’s molded on your tire’s sidewall.

The key thing to know: the pressure on the sidewall is the maximum, for when the tire is carrying its maximum load. It’s not the pressure you have to run. A lot of the harsh feel people notice comes from airing E-rated tires up to the max on a truck that doesn’t need anywhere near that. Here’s how to set it right.

Almost every tire made in the sizes people want on a leveled or lifted truck, like 35×12.50R20, 37×12.50R20 and 35×12.50R22, comes in load range E or F only. These sizes are made for heavier trucks and lifted rigs, so tire makers build them as light truck tires. Here’s how one popular all-terrain, the Nitto Recon Grappler A/T, lines up against a common factory 20-inch size:

Size (Nitto Recon Grappler A/T)Load rangeMax load @ pressureTire weight
275/60R20 XL (common factory-size passenger tire)XL2,756 lb @ 50 psi47.0 lb
35×12.50R20LTF (12-ply rated)3,640 lb @ 80 psi70.4 lb
37×12.50R20LTE (10-ply rated)3,750 lb @ 65 psi74.3 lb
35×12.50R22LTF (12-ply rated)3,195 lb @ 80 psi69.7 lb
Specs from Nitto’s published Recon Grappler A/T size chart, October 2026. Other brands are similar: in these three sizes, the tires we found were all load range E or F.

A bigger, beefier tire that’s built to carry more weight is going to feel a little firmer than a light passenger tire. That’s not a bad thing. It’s just the trade-off for the look, the toughness and the capability you’re after.

Exceptions: Some Sizes Come in a Lighter Load Range

There are a few unicorns out there. Some sizes are made in a lighter passenger-style load range, and they’re very few and far between:

  • Nitto Recon Grappler A/T 315/60R20. At about 34.9 inches tall, it’s basically a 35, and Nitto offers it as a standard-load (SL) tire (116S, 2,756 lb at 44 psi) as well as an LT load range E version. The SL version is about 12.6 lb lighter per tire.
  • A handful of other sizes, like Nitto’s 305/55R22 Recon Grappler (about 35.2 inches), also come in standard load.
  • 17-inch wheels give you more choices. Some 35- and 37-inch tires on 17s come in load range C or D, and they also have more sidewall to soak up bumps.

These are a great fit for a half-ton that’s mostly driven daily and doesn’t haul or tow heavy, as long as the tire’s load rating covers your truck. They aren’t for 3/4-ton and 1-ton trucks, which come with LT tires from the factory and should stay on them. Ask us and we’ll tell you what’s available in the size you want.

How to Keep a Smooth Ride After a Level or Lift

  • Run the right pressure for the load, not the max. Don’t just air an E-rated tire up to the max on the sidewall. The right number comes from your truck’s weight and the tire maker’s load and inflation chart. LT tires often need a little more air than your factory passenger tires to carry the same weight, so don’t just copy the door sticker either. Never run less than the load needs. A quick chalk test (draw a chalk line across the tread, drive straight a short distance and see where it wears) helps you fine-tune. Ask us and we’ll help you find the right number for your truck.
  • Ask about SL, XL or a lighter load range. If you don’t tow or haul heavy and the size you want comes in a lighter load range, it’ll ride softer. If you do tow, an E-rated tire is the right call.
  • Think about wheel size. Going from 18s to 22s or 24s means less sidewall to cushion bumps. Smaller wheels with more sidewall ride softer and open up more tire choices.
  • Expect a little more weight at each corner. Bigger tires and wheels add weight the suspension has to control, so you’ll feel a bit more of the road. That’s normal.
  • Pick the tread for how you drive. Aggressive mud-terrains hum louder on the highway than all-terrains. That’s noise, not suspension, but it can make a truck feel rougher.
  • Get it balanced and aligned. Big tires need a good balance, and any level or lift needs an alignment. Neither one changes spring rate, but both make the truck drive smoother and help the tires wear evenly.
  • On bigger lifts, geometry and shocks matter. A quality kit corrects the suspension angles for the new height. If you want a softer or more controlled ride, the next step is better shocks or struts, which is covered below.

When It DOES Matter: Upgraded Struts and Coilovers

Once you move past a basic spacer or a basic lift into upgraded struts, coilovers or performance shocks from brands like Fox, King or Bilstein, all bets are off. Those parts actually change the spring rate and the valving, so the ride can get softer, firmer or more controlled depending on what you pick and how it’s set up. Some are adjustable, so you can tune them yourself.

This is where there’s real room for opinion. One customer wants a plush highway ride, another wants a truck that soaks up the trails, and another tows every weekend. Come talk to us about how you drive and we’ll help you pick the setup that fits.

Leveling Kit and Tire Ride Quality FAQs

Do leveling kits affect ride quality?

A strut spacer leveling kit doesn’t change your spring rate or damping, so the ride stays effectively the same. Most of the difference people feel after a level comes from new, bigger tires, which are usually 10-ply (E) or 12-ply (F) light truck tires. They ride a little firmer than factory passenger tires, and that’s normal.

Does a leveling kit make the ride stiffer?

Not by itself. The spacer sits on top of the strut and leaves the factory spring and shock alone. If your truck feels stiffer after a level, look at the tires and the air pressure first. Running an E-rated tire at the max pressure on the sidewall is a common reason a truck feels harsh, and it’s an easy fix.

Is one strut spacer brand or basic 6-inch lift smoother than another?

Among basic kits, not really. Basic strut spacer levels are effectively the same as each other on ride quality, and so are basic 6-inch lifts. Pick the height and look you want and don’t overthink the brand. Tires and air pressure will make a much bigger difference in how it feels.

Do 10-ply or E-rated tires ride rough?

They ride firmer than factory passenger tires, but they don’t ride bad. E- and F-rated tires are normal for big sizes, and they’re tough, puncture-resistant and built to carry and tow. A lot of the harsh feel people complain about comes from running them at the max sidewall pressure, which a typical half-ton doesn’t need.

What tire pressure should I run in E-rated tires on a half-ton truck?

It depends on your truck’s weight and the tire’s load and inflation chart, not the 80 psi or 65 psi molded on the sidewall. That number is the max, for max load. LT tires often need a bit more air than factory passenger tires to carry the same weight, so don’t go below what the load needs either. Ask us and we’ll help you find the right number.

Can I get 35-inch tires that aren’t 10-ply?

A few. Most 35×12.50R20 and 35×12.50R22 tires are E or F only, but some sizes, like the Nitto Recon Grappler A/T 315/60R20 (about a 35), come in a standard-load passenger version. Some 35s on 17-inch wheels come in load range C or D. They’re a good fit for a half-ton that doesn’t tow heavy. Ask us what’s available in your size.

Do upgraded struts or coilovers change the ride?

Yes. Upgraded struts, coilovers and performance shocks from brands like Fox, King and Bilstein change the spring rate and valving, so the ride really can get softer, firmer or more controlled. That’s where opinions and preferences come in. Tell us how you drive and we’ll help you pick the right setup.

Do I need an alignment after a leveling kit?

Yes. Raising the front changes the alignment angles, so any level or lift should get an alignment afterward. It keeps the truck driving straight and the tires wearing evenly. It won’t change spring rate, but it makes the truck drive the way it should.

Get a Quote on a Leveling Kit or Lift

Tell us your year, make and model, the height you’re after and the tire size you want, and we’ll give you a straight answer on how it’ll ride and what it’ll cost. You can also check our leveling kit prices for most trucks, or see what customers say in our Google reviews.

Texas Offroad & Performance, 20504 B Hwy. 6, Manvel, TX 77578. Open Mon–Thu 9:30 AM–5:00 PM and Fri 9:30 AM–3:00 PM. Email us any time.

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